It’s a solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. An oily ingredient that can magically blend with water all by itself (called Self Emulsifying). 2 magic property is that licorice is a potent anti-inflammatory. Safe for sensitive skin, the cream can be used by all members of the family, even children and babies. Other than that it’s a nice emollient that gives a smooth and soft appearance to the skin. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. Thanks. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into.
Another study even suggested that licorice is more effective than the gold standard skin-lightening agent hydroquinone. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>.
Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. Bottom line: Licorice is a great skincare ingredient with significant depigmenting, anti-inflammatory and even some antioxidant properties. The difference between "normal" Glyceryl Stearate and this guy is that the SE grade contains a small amount of water-loving soap molecules, such as sodium stearate. Its name-giving main component is eucalyptol (also called 1,8-cineole, 80-91%) that has significant antibacterial and expectorant properties.
As cosmetic chemist Colins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt".
It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with. Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It is excellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, like seborrhea or fungal acne.
Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. It’s used to treat several skin diseases that are connected to inflammation including atopic dermatitis, rosacea or eczema. The unfancy name for it is lye. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. Probably the most common silicone of all. Can you guess what? A common multi-tasker fatty acid that works as an emollient, thickener and emulsion stabilizer. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. It's a popular duo. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. We wrote way more about ceramides at ceramide 1, so click here to know more. An error has occurred. The essential oil created by steam distilling the leaves of the Eucalyptus tree.
An extremely common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams and lotions. Super common soothing ingredient. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or Karite Trees and used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. This increases Glyceryl Stearate's affinity for water and gives it stronger emulsifying abilities.
Nr. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fatty acid molecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to soap making. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives.
:) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too.
It can be found naturally in the roots & leaves of the comfrey plant, but more often than not what's in the cosmetic products is produced synthetically. All in all, licorice is considered to be one of the safest skin lightening agents with the fewest side effects. It's often used in sunscreens as it's also an excellent solvent for sunscreen agents. As f.c.
is drying. Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Read all the geeky details about Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract here >>, A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, Green tea is one of the most researched natural ingredients, The active parts are called polyphenols, or more precisely catechins (EGCG being the most abundant and most active catechin), There can be huge quality differences between green tea extracts.
A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It has proven antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anticarcinogenic properties. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. There is just one catch regarding glabridin and licorice: the amount of glabridin in commercial licorice extracts can vary a lot.
We have seen extracts with only 4% glabridin as well as 40% glabridin.
Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. It works even better when combined with its pal, Ceramide 1. Good old water, aka H2O. It makes your skin feel nice and smooth (emollient), gives body to cream type products and helps to stabilize water and oil mixes (aka emulsions). The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. Sodium hydroxide in itself is a potent skin irritant, but once it's reacted (as it is usually in skin care products, like exfoliants) it is totally harmless. A common multi-tasker fatty acid. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85°C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). Please try again later!
An often used emollient with a light and silky feel. The beautiful, whipped texture is instantly absorbed with no greasy after-feel. Yes, it’s soap. Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). BTW, lye is not something new. The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Green Tea - one of the most researched natural ingredients that contains the superstar actives called catechins. Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it's nice).
An oily kind of ingredient that can magically blend with water all by itself. It leaves a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g.
Licorice Root;Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract.
Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-called rheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). The good ones contain 50-90% catechins (and often make the product brown and give it a distinctive smell), Green tea is proven to be a great antioxidant, UV protectant, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic and antimicrobial, Because of these awesome properties green tea is a great choice for anti-aging and also for skin diseases including rosacea, acne and atopic dermatitis. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers.
Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules (polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules (glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. Super common soothing ingredient. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. :).
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